Last Day in Habana

Last Day in Habana
I'll start with dinner last night. We we on our own, and Ann had made reservations earlier for a restaurant we had seen in the Cathedral Square. This was one of the little private family owned restaurants, or paladars, that are now being allowed to operate. Two of our group joined us to make four. It was an easy 15 minute walk into the old city from our hotel. It couldn't have been more pleasant. The appetizer was a type of fried root, Taro. Delicious. Ann had the fish of the day, MahiMahi, in a red Cuban sauce, and I had meatballs in a different sauce. One of our group couldn't eat garlic, so they made a dish just for her. Flan for desert, which was good, but not the best. While we were eating, the skies opened up, but miraculously, stopped just as we were finishing. As we walked back, we were inundated with music coming from the various windows. I couldn't tell if there were dance clubs back there or if it was just people blaring music. Cool.
This morning, we had a talk about the classic cars here. Lots of pictures of the classic Fords and Chevies from the 50s. Some old Cadillacs also. Also some time was spent on the renovation of Hemingway's old car.
We piled into the bus for one last tour of Havana, in some of the more affluent sections. We went past Fidel's house that is a state secret. A little further out, we came to a neighborhood similar to the Muraleando. Most of the art has been done by one guy, Fusta. This is a cross between Gaudi and Picasso. Wild tile figures, not only at his house, but up and down the street, including the bus stops. We had lunch there and bought a tile.

After lunch, we came back to the hotel for a session with two journalists, Mark Frank of Reuters, and Christina Escobar of the Cuban News Service. She has recently been assigned to cover the US-Cuban relationship, and was the first Cuban reporter to be in the White House since 1959. We had a wide ranging discussion about the changing relationship, the changes happening here in Cuba, and the future as Fidel and Raul plan the transition in 2018. Things happening now could not have been dreamed of 10 years ago. The opening (sort of) of the Internet is changing perceptions greatly, as has the loosening of travel restrictions. They spoke of the dissidents and how they are perceived as speaking for Cubans or some outside interest. They spoke of the aging Florida Cuban community and its diminishing influence on elections. They spoke of the changing patterns of relationships among the nations of Central and South America. They noted that the the Summit of the Americas, in which the US in the past would not allow Cuba to participate, has morphed and the upcoming summit in Panama has invited Cuba, and has told the US they could come if they wanted.
Later this evening, is our GoodBye reception and final dinner. We are to awaken tomorrow at 4:30 to get to the airport. Uggh. Assuming we get to Miami early enough, we will try to go standby for an earlier flight back to DC. At the latest, we have a 5pm flight, AND an early Tuesday flight, just in case.

Victory always, Beach, Hemingway house

Bay of Pigs to Habana - Saturday

Bay of Pigs to Habana - Saturday
The trip back to Havana was somewhat complex. Es complicado. We took a southern route across the island looking at mountains to our right, and beaches to our left. The history I am recounting is paraphrasing our guide. These were the mountains Fidel had started in, but were subsequently occupied by those who were dissatisfied. Why the dissatisfaction? With the original overthrow of Batista, an ostensibly democratic government was established. Fidel was not officially part of the government, but obviously a power player. He arranged the ouster of the Prime Minister, and he became PM. He meets with VP Nixon to talk, and Nixon becomes convinced he is a communist and a puppet of the Soviets. He was neither, at <that> time. He promised Nixon there would be no nationalization of industry, especially American interests. He began to talk of "obeying the will of the people". He then used this ploy to oust the president for not "obeying the will of the people". He became Premier, and seized private assets, promising elections would occur when the Cuban people were fed and employed. Not exactly democracy. He began to accumulate arms and train people in military maneuvers. One of the ships carrying arms from Bulgaria exploded in Havana harbor. An accident? CIA? Fidel makes a speech to rally the people using the phrase "Fatherland, or Death!" Patria o Muerte! It's still on all the walls here. Fidel buys oil from Russia, but the US refineries refuse to process it. President Eisenhower cancels all sugar sales from Cuba, and Fidel seizes US property. Ike begins to make plans for an invasion. They begin to train exiles, form a government in exile, and make contacts with counter revolutionaries. JFK becomes president, and inherits this mess. A full embargo goes into effect.
Our military wants to do an all out invasion, but JFK wants something more low profile with no US fingerprints on the operation. The first landing site picked near the mountains with the counter revolutionaries seemed too much like Omaha Beach, so the site was moved to the Bay of Pigs, 50 miles to the west. Cuban reconnaissance people said there was too much coral in those waters, but US experts thought the images just showed seaweed. The bay led into a large swampy area with only 2 roads out. Fidel had spies in the the mountains so he knew the landing place.
So when the 1900 exiles tried to land, many boats grounded on the coral. Those that made it through were greeted with machine guns and lights in their eyes. It was over in 3 days, and they only got 4 km inland, and never met up with the counter revolutionaries in the mountains, miles away.
Afterwards, Cuba turned more to Russia for arms and socialism. As the missles and anti-aircraft weapons accumulated, Fidel was touring a facility. Allegedly, when a Russian colonel boasted "we could shoot down a US spy plane with the push of a button", and Fidel asked "which one?" and proceeded to push it, knocking a U2 out of the sky. Krushchev realized Fidel was a loose canon. When Fidel pleaded for Russia to invade the US, as part of the missle crisis, Krushchev and Kennedy negotiated together and never informed Fidel of the plans. Krushchev got JFK to take missles out of Turkey in exchange for taking the missles out of Cuba.
All this was in the lead up to the museum at the Bay of Pigs celebrating "Our Victory". Actually, the museum was very blasé and just showed photos of those who died, and a few canons, machine guns and a few tanks. The beach itself is now a resort, and looks like a beach.
Nice lunch overlooking the Bay.
We had a Nature talk after lunch about conservation. There is a Nature park of 150 square miles with hundred of bird and animal species. We learned the difference between a American and Cuban crocodile.
On the way back we stopped at Earnest Hemingway's house. Hemingway came to Cuba in 1928, and fell in love with the island. He bought a house with money from "For Whom the Bell Tolls". There is some controversy as to whether the house was a "gift to the state" or whether it was expropriated by Fidel. The house is preserved just as it was when he died. Hemingway used to weigh himself daily, and mark it on the wall. The notations are still visible on the bathroom wall above the scale. His liquor bottles are still there. I have some affinity with Hemingway, as we share a birthday.
We are now back in Havana at the Parque Central, with "dinner on our own". We are going to the old city to a little paladar (a privately run restaurant).



Stephen J. Rockower, MD
President, MedChi 2016-2017
The Maryland State Medical Society

Sent from my iPad

Dinner Friday

Dinner Friday
One quick note about dinner. We were asked whether we wanted white or brown rice. The white rice was just that. The brown rice was rice and beans. Not exactly what we had in mind...
Back to Havana tomorrow by way of the Bay of Pigs to hear their side of the story.



Stephen J. Rockower, MD
President, MedChi 2016-2017
The Maryland State Medical Society

Sent from my iPad

On our bed today

Jose Marti, Our National Hero

Old records

Botanical Garden

Cienfuegos - Friday

Cienfuegos - Friday
We started the day minus a few more due tho the Tourista. Still not me yet.
We went to the Botanical Garden to see the flora and fauna. This IS an National Geographic trip!!! There were lots of different trees and flowers. Lots of butterflies. No birds that we saw, but we did hear them. We almost saw a tarantula that Chris had tried to fish out of his hole in the ground.
We the proceeded to an old sugar plantation that had been converted to a town. This was the last plantation closed by the government in 2002. The old mansion is slowly being renovated and we saw some of its old splendor. Some of the old tax books and accounting books were on display. The people were warm except for one teenager who gladly posed for a picture for the Canadian in our group, but turned his back on the American.
Lunch was at least a buffet, so our plates were not overflowing.
After lunch we went into the town through the walking street to the central square. Very nice buildings from the late 1800's and early 20th century. In the square was to ubiquitous statue of Jose Marti (our National Hero). We went into a museum for a chamber orchestra concert of some wonderful musicians playing classical Cuban music. The spokesman communicated in excellent English and got us up doing the ChaCha. Of course, the obligatory CD sale. During the concert, the skies opened up with a deluge, with thunder and lightening. It was mostly finished when we got out. Most of us returned to the hotel; Ann remained to do some shopping. We were supposed to meet tonight with the CDR (Committee for the Defense of the Revolution), but it was felt that too many of our party was sick to justify it.


Stephen J. Rockower, MD
President, MedChi 2016-2017
The Maryland State Medical Society

Sent from my iPad

Trinidad and Cien

A Day in Trinidad - Thursday

A Day in Trinidad - Thursday
More sickness in the group. One of our crew was too sick to travel with us today. BUT, as we pulled away from the hotel, he was seen on the balcony smoking a cigar. Hmmmm.
An hour and a half to Trinidad. This is a old town that was founded in the 17th century as sugar plantation town. It became very wealthy as it sugar flourished in the 19th century. By the end of the 19th century, with the abolishment of slavery, competition from sugar beets, and the beginnings of the independence movement, it lost its luster. By the time of the revolution in the 1950s, it had become in major disrepair. In the 70s, the state begun to restore the buildings to colonial splendor. By 1988, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tourism flourished. The center of the old town still has cobblestone streets with real cobblestones. Nobody sprained an ankle, though. Nowadays, private businesses are beginning to return. The government now allows some private bed and breakfasts, and Trinidad now has the most in the nation. No big hotels, which is the reason we went to Cienfuegos.
The town itself is quaint. There is a central square with some old churches which have been converted to war museums. The view from the top of the bell tower was wonderful. Looking at the rooftops, I did notice the distinct lack of TV antennas or satellite dishes.
Lunch at a nice restaurant, and Ann had delicious lobster tail. Every place we eat we are serenaded by a little band, which subsequently comes around to sell CDs for $10.
After lunch we had free time to shop and explore. That's when I went to the top of the bell tower. The museum had pictures of Fidel and Che, which I will try to upload some pictures. At the end of the free time, we met for lemon aide, and went to the house of the "horse whisperer", who is a friend of Chris's. A few people were missing, and we found two of them. As I am writing, we are still looking for our last companion. He never showed up at our meeting point, and not at any other place we had been. Our guides actually checked with the police, local hospital, our hotel and tour guide company to no avail. After searching for an hour, we left Trinidad and came back to Cienfuegos,where he met us at the door. It seems he had been waiting at a different spot, and finally took a cab back. He bargained the price from $65 to $40, and said he probably could have done better, but was tired at that point! Anyway, alls well.
At this point we were too tired and otherwise stuffed to go out for a big dinner. Many of us met at the bar and had pizza and beer. Even that was too large, so when a straggler came by, she got the leftover half pizzas! The band here was pretty good, so another $10 CD purchase! We were approached by a retired Cuban baseball showing us his pictures and selling shirts and baseballs. Sorry guys.



Stephen J. Rockower, MD
President, MedChi 2016-2017
The Maryland State Medical Society

Sent from my iPad

View from our room in Cienfuegos

Yacht Club

Habana to Cienfuegos - Wednesday

Habana to Cienfuegos - Wednesday
A 3 hour bus ride through the heartland of Cuba. Rolling fields of sugar and other crops. The rural area started within a few minutes of our leaving Havana, as we went through the tunnel under the bay, built by Meier Lansky in 1958. He built it himself, as it was to lead to his new gambling development on the other side of the bay. He did have his timing wrong.
During the ride we had lectures from our local guide Migdalia on the educational system and a long exposition of the politics of the embargo by Chris. Fascinating to hear of some of the back story of Cuban and Florida/US politics.
Lunch at the Yacht Club. Yes, really a yacht club, left over from the 50s. There are no Cuban yachts, but boats for hire. The club itself is now a tourist restaurant. Lunch was plain, but half the group is not eating because of Tourista! It hasn't gotten to me (yet), but we'll see what the next few days bring.
After lunch to an art/music school where there were some performances by the middle school students. They weren't too bad, for the most part, but absolutely NONE of them smiled at any time that I saw. The art work was pretty good, but they had the best of the best on the walls. The professors were selling their work, and Ann found a cubist-like painting by one of the professors, who had been a student there years ago. After he got his degree in Havana, he came back to teach. Of course, we didn't think to get a photo of the painting or him until after it was rolled up and we were heading back to the bus! On our wall in a few weeks!
Checked in to the Hotel Jagua with a pretty view on both sides. We had been warned that the hotel was not "up to American standards", but it is certainly clean and fine. Not a problem.


Stephen J. Rockower, MD
President, MedChi 2016-2017
The Maryland State Medical Society

Sent from my iPad

Jazz Band

Towel Swans

Habana Day 3 - Tuesday

Habana Day 3 - Tuesday
The first stop today was at the cigar factory. Actually first we went to the factory store. The factory we were first scheduled for had a power outage! And we had to walk around the block to another, and fit it for a tour. I'd love to share some pictures but it was FORBIDDEN to do any photography. They repeated this numerous times, so I didn't want to chance it. We watched as they wrapped the different blends of tobacco into a wrapping by hand and cut them to length. It was a different process than what we saw in Myanmar last year. All the Cuban brands are made in the same factories; the only difference is the types of tobacco put into the blend. A good wrapper will wrap 80-140 per day.
Then we went to the Foundation for Nature and Man, a small museum devoted to pre Columbian Art in Cuba and the Americas. They had an interesting collection of Kama-Sutra like figurines.
However, the best part of the museum was a talk by some university professors, Marta Lunes, a sociologist, and Rafael Betancourt, an economist. They discussed the changing sociology and economics of Cuba, and the future for Cuba when the Castro brothers retire/die. They have set a date of 2018 as a changeover to a new government. We will see how Cuba evolves as the Founder moves off the scene. It has been said that Raul has actually been working behind the scenes to put a succession plan in place, not only for leadership but for economics as well. They had to cut us off at an hour, but we certainly could have gone on for 2 more.
Lunch was a typical Cuban chicken with rice and beans and steamed or boiled yucca with garlic. Really good. As we were leaving, a bunch of US security types came into the restaurant. We asked who was coming in-Rick Abbot, governor of Texas. We didn't wait.
After lunch we went to a private dance company of 20 somethings giving a recital of drums, percussion, and chairs. Actually was pretty good.
Then a stop at the Park of the Revolution, where Fidel gave many fiery speeches.
When we arrived back in our room to find that our maid who we had left a few dollars each day had left us a towel sculpture in the shape of two swans. Very cute and lovely. We'll be sure to give her a good tip as we leave tomorrow.
On our way to dinner, we stopped at a children's theater of "The Beehive". It was a very cute production (45 minutes!!!) of very talented children. The "star" was 5 years old, and she belted out songs, danced, and remembered all her lines!!! Too long, but enjoyable.
Dinner at the Elite, on the outskirts of Havana. Beautiful restaurant, but a number of our group was beginning to get the effects of the different flora, and we had a few peel off to go back to the hotel. Ann was one of them. Hmmm. Long bus ride tomorrow to Cienfuegos. We'll see.


Stephen J. Rockower, MD
President, MedChi 2016-2017
The Maryland State Medical Society

Sent from my iPad

In our Havana hotel

Habana Day 2 - Monday

Habana Day 2 - Monday
Breakfast meeting with Miguel Coyula, an architect discussing Old Havana, as well as the social repercussions of the Russian period and the changes since the collapse of the Soviet Union. They are struggling with the onset of financial and social discrepancies, and preventing the "Shanghai-ization" of the architecture. People own their apartments, but there is no building management. Emigration is a problem, as people are fleeing before the US changes its law allowing all Cubans to remain in the US. There is a a lot of renovation going on, but it is often next to a run down building, so the contrast is often startling.
Once out of class, we headed for old Havana itself. This was a walled city in the early years, and remnants of the wall are still evident. The harbor has a narrow mouth, and they had a large chain that stretched across the narrowest part to keep enemy ships out. As anyone who has read Game of Thrones knows, that can be a very effective defense. The English thwarted them however, by doing an end-around and coming over the hill to capture Cuba from the Spanish in 1759. The English were defeated by yellow fever and malaria and left 11 months later. The Spanish then returned until the beginning of the twentieth century when the Americans took over Cuba after the sinking of the USS Maine.

The old section is built around four squares, with cobblestones (from Massachusetts ) lining most of the streets. The exception is the street directly in front of the palace which have hard wood on the street. The story is either that the wife of an early governor didn't like the sound of the wheels clacking on cobblestones, or that the governor just wanted to show off how rich he was. There are all sorts of Cuban folks who have received licenses from the State in the squares in colorful dresses for the women or fine dress for the men asking for a dollar to have a picture with them. One guy is dressed as Che(or something similar) strutting around giving orders. Most of these people are actually licensed by the government to do this, but they can get aggressive here just as anywhere.
Lunch was delicious consisting of paella. Ann had Mahi-Mahi. Flan for desert was good, but those who know me know I am very particular. So it was just good, not spectacular!
After lunch was a presentation about the Afro-Cuban Yoruba religion. Children in colorful costumes dancing, interspersed with some talk. Right after lunch, this was not a good choice, as I slept through a good part of it.
After we walked back to the hotel, we took real naps. Then out to dinner at La Moneda Cubana, a family owned restaurant for 4 generations, except for a small period when there were no businesses or private restaurants. This supposedly was an award winning restaurant, but I thought it was only fair. Ann's opinion was better than mine, however.
After dinner, we went to a Cuban Jazz club, filled with tourists. The band was a bunch of old guys. Think a Cuban version of Preservation Hall. They were pretty good, but the noise was a little too much. A healthy walk back from the old city and we collapsed.


Stephen J. Rockower, MD
President, MedChi 2016-2017
The Maryland State Medical Society

Sent from my iPad

Hola Habana!

Hola Habana!
So we had an easy trip yesterday from DC to Miami, and found our airport hotel without problems. We got up this morning and got to the airport. We entered the door and turned left. We walked and walked, but couldn't find the meeting place in front of Nathan's. Miami is a VERY big airport! So we turned around and went back to the door we came in on, and walked perhaps 50 feet to find our crew! We are 26 people from around the US plus our Expedition Leader , Sylvia, and Christopher, our National Geographic Expert. It seems to be a pretty good bunch of seasoned travelers. Our only snafu was a lost passport on the plane, but Sylvia retrieved it as we deplaned in Havana. Customs included X-rays as we entered the baggage area, which was weird, but otherwise we had no problems. It was, however, rather interesting to have a cleaning woman come into the bathroom with me to ask if I wanted to change money through her rather than the "official" rate. I demurred, but others thought I should have taken her up on the offer.
Instead of going directly to our hotel, we went to an area called the Muraleando. This was a community art and music project . The history was that a neighborhood took it upon themselves to clean up the area around an old water vat, and use the scraps to make into "found art". The water vat now houses the community art project and is called Casa Cultural Comunitaria. The project took off, and now they have art classes for hundreds of local kids. We had a concert with some dancing by the cutest little 5 and 8 year old girls. They served a drink called "The Vat" consisting of rum, cacao, and coconut liquor. No sewer water, though.
And if you are wondering, yes, there are lots of old cars here. Chevys and Fords and DeSotos from the 50's...
Before dinner was a welcoming lecture, outlining the rigid rules of our "educational" adventure. Really. We have to keep a journal to ascertain we are meeting people. I should be putting in the names of the people we met today, but I forgot. Maybe I'll fill them in tomorrow. But since we are writing this together since we are both obliged to journal, I can fill in some details. The community leader at Muraleando who was our guide today was Victor Rodriguez.
Our hotel is the Parque Central, right at the Central Park. There is an awful lot of construction going on, but that's because there are so many run down buildings that need renovating. We have an architecture lecture tomorrow.
Diner at a private restaurant, (a paladar) called Atelier, of rice and beans, veggies, chicken. Lobster tail, and pork. Ice cream for desert. Very Cuban.


Stephen J. Rockower, MD
President, MedChi 2016-2017
The Maryland State Medical Society

Sent from my iPad